| Trivia question:
What is a “grape brick,” and what was it used for? And why does it remind me of W.C. Fields? (All right, you only have to get the first part right — I don’t expect you to read my mind!) |
Wine goes to the movies …
Most wine lovers have probably seen the movie Sideways, a neatly done tale of two men’s odyssey in search of wine and women. If you haven’t seen it or want to watch it again, rent it and get a good bottle of Pinot Noir to accompany it. That’s because Miles, the tragicomic protagonist, waxes poetic about the qualities of the pinot noir grape that make it his favorite. If you’re drinking merlot during Sideways, be prepared to hear Miles disparage the grape — although with a good merlot at your side, you will certainly disagree with him.
Speaking of Sideways, here’s an irony about the movie that might qualify as a second bit of trivial entertainment. Miles is saving a bottle of 1961 Cheval Blanc for a special occasion. The irony is that it is blended from Merlot and Cabernet Franc — two grape varietals that Miles singles out for criticism in the film!
Feel free to experiment with wines that go with your favorite films. Perhaps a good Bordeaux or Burgundy to toast the French freedom fighters in Casablanca? In keeping with this column’s theme, if you’re watching Dracula or any good vampire movie, I would suggest Vampire Cabernet Sauvignon or Vampire Merlot. Both have deep purplish-red robes and the Cabernet is spicy on the nose and the palate, with a slightly wild but rich, fruity flavor and plenty of oak. It’s from Transylvania, it’s the color of blood, and it is perfect for lifting your glass when Bela Lugosi says, “I never drink … wine.” Its price won’t scare you to death either, at $9.99 or less at
The Wine Merchant and other quality wine shops.
Looking for a good Pinot Noir for film noir that won’t suck your wallet dry? See our new Pick for Charlie feature in this column!
… and wine goes with literature!
Throughout history, there have been plenty of references to wine in literature, from the bible to Shakespeare and Samuel Johnson. You can find out more about this at a delightful Web site, the State Library of South Australia’s
Wine Literature of the World. Readers, if you can think of examples of references to wine in more modern literature, please feel free to send them to me at
HarryC13@aol.com and I’ll be sure to credit you in my next column. Readers, if you can think of examples of references to wine in more modern literature, please feel free to send them to me at and I’ll be sure to credit you in my next column.
Frugal focus: Charles Shaw winery
There’s a lot of word-of-mouth mystique surrounding the Charles Shaw wines. Trader Joe’s stores sell it for anywhere from $1.99 to $2.99 a bottle — hence the nickname “Two Buck Chuck” — and the word is that it’s pretty good stuff. Rumors have sprung up explaining its cheapness, most prominent the one that United Airlineshad to return a huge shipment of Charles Shaw Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay wine. Why? Because policies instituted after the September 11, 2001 tragedy forbade the use of corkscrews to open wine bottles on flights, because terrorists might potentially use corkscrews, like box cutters, as weapons.
Well, if that were so, the prices would have gone back up by now, and they haven’t. It’s nothing as dramatic as the airline scenario — the wines can be sold cheaply because California is growing a lot of wine grapes. In the 1990s, many vineyards expanded their acreage and new vineyards sprang up. The young vines matured, production soared and grape prices dropped dramatically. Take a glut of cheap grapes and add modern processing equipment and you have a formula for quality low-cost wines.
Charles Shaw is part of the JFJ Bronco Wine Company. The owners are two brothers and a cousin from the California winemaking Franzia family. In most places outside of California, the wine goes for $2.99, but it’s still dirt-cheap. Here’s a look at what they have to offer:
Shiraz. This fruity, peppery wine is my favorite of the Charles Shaw wines. It’s not as full-bodied as some of the Australian or California shirazes, but it’s sturdy enough. Wine Spectator did not rate the Shiraz, but NPR’s Morning Edition show of June 18, 2004 reports that “at the 28th Annual International Eastern Wine Competition, a $1.99 bottle of California Wine, the 2002 Charles Shaw Shiraz, beat out 2,300 wines to win a prestigious double gold medal.” Pretty impressive at this or any price.
Chardonnay. Nice fruity, citrusy aroma. A good crisp wine that I expected to be heavily oaked in the unfortunate California tradition but was actually surprisingly light on the oak. Nice hints of citrus and tropical fruit and not as bone-dry as some I’ve had. Wine Spectator gives it an 82.
Cabernet Sauvignon. Fruity, medium bodied — not one of the big boomers I know and love — with nice cherry and plummy aromas. There’s a hint of sweetness that I don’t find annoying, but others might. The Wine Spectator gives it an 82 — “good: a solid, well-made wine.”
Sauvignon Blanc. Classic example of the varietal, with grapefruit and lychee. A crisp, drinkable wine that you would never mistake for a classic New Zealand sauvignon, but it’s good enough that I’d serve it to guests. Wine Spectator says it’s an 80.
Merlot. The Charles Shaw Merlot is surprisingly full-bodied, with a silky mouthfeel and fewer tannins than I am accustomed to in a merlot. The fruity aroma doesn’t quite translate to the taste. The November 2006 Wine Spectator gave it a 77, which translates to “mediocre: a drinkable wine that may have minor flaws.”
Trader Joe’s also carries a line called French Market that allows drinkers to sample a Chardonnay and a Cabernet Sauvignon that are made from genuine French grapes for a reasonable $3.99 a bottle.. They’re from the sunny Pays d’Oc region of southern France, along the Mediterranean, and both are serviceable and representative of both the varietals and French winemaking methods. I haven’t tried the French Market Merlot.
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Don’t forget the trivia question:
What is a “grape brick,” and what was it used for?
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Cono Sur is a Chilean winery that is dedicated to producing fine wines, including Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Carmerere, Pinot Noir, Viognier and Syrah. They also offer premium versions of their wines that I have yet to taste. But the Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir —both affordable at $9.99 a bottle — are among the best values I’ve ever had. In fact, one of their reds is my Pick for Charlie of the month — but first, here’s a bit about the Cono Sur Sauvignon Blanc:
“No family trees. No dusty bottles. Just quality wines.” That’s what the Cono Sur Web site says, and based on the two wines I’ve tasted, I agree. While the winery offers more expensive lines, its basic Cono Sur varietals offer elegance at a decent price. The Cono Sur Sauvignon Blanc, 2005 vintage is a lovely golden color and a taste and aroma that might have blown in from New Zealand. It has the classic New Zealand gooseberry and citrus combination and crisp acidity balanced by some surprising fruitiness. This is a perfect wine as an aperitif, but it almost begs for a summer salad sprinkled with herbs. A real taste treat for only $9.99.
Louis Latour has a venerable history of producing fine wines. The 2000 Louis Latour Grand Ardeche Chardonnay has the additional allure of being affordable at $7.99 (at
The Wine Merchant) to $9.99 a bottle.) to $9.99 a bottle. .jpg)
The only thing not to like about this wine is that it comes in a fat-bottomed bottle that won’t fit in my favorite wine rack! It’s a full-bodied wine that is bursting with exotic fruits — pineapple, in particular. The oak imparts a creamy vanilla and toffee undertone, especially in the long finish. It’s complex and my wife and I had fun describing it; she praised its spiciness and the butterscotch on the back of the tongue; I liked the melon and lychee notes and a faint hint of smokiness. I’m sure the age has mellowed the wine, but given Latour’s reputation, I’m sure that newer vintages also shine.
Pick for Charlie
My friend Charlie Hart is, like me, always on the lookout for good affordable wines. Because Charlie and I both prefer reds, I decided to pick one inexpensive but outstanding bottle of red in each column for Charlie to sample. (Other readers, of course, are encouraged to try it too!) If he chooses, Charlie can lend his comments to the column and I’ll pass them on.
Charlie, this month I’m picking 2005 Cono Sur Pinot Noir. Jane McQuitty of the Times Online lists it in Star Buys and calls it “the New World's most authentic, best-value Pinot Noir.” I think it drinks like a 30-dollar bottle at $9.99. Like you, Charlie, I tend toward big-bodied wines, but a good Pinot Noir is a joyous find, and this one is bursting with black cherries and strawberries. It’s a likeable wine but with a backbone, earthiness and a touch of that broodiness you find in good Pinot. The Cono Sur site says it’s a New World-styled Pinot, but to me it drinks like a traditional French Burgundy. Either way, great wine, great price,and in a screwcap to boot. Cheers, Charlie!
Digging deeper
While Ten Dollar Tastings promotes imbibing without impoverishment, it won’t hurt you to spend a little extra on your tenth wedding anniversary, a tailgate at the Silversun Pickups concert or a special dinner. One of my cherished favorite reds is Campus Oaks Old Vines Zinfandel. I’ve had the 2002, 2003 and 2004 vintages and all are excellent — especially at only $12.75 a bottle. And the white that has turned my head and made me dig a bit deeper into my pockets is the Val de Sil Godello. I had the 2003 vintage and it was bright and beautiful, reminding me of my wife Trina. I don’t encounter the godello grape often — certainly not as often as I encounter Trina — but this wine is excitingly flavored with peaches and almonds and well-balanced acidity. For anywhere from $16 to $20, it’s an excellent splurge wine.
Surf in for more Tastings next time …
So many wines, so little time! In the next Ten Dollar Tastings, I’ll be reviewing some wines that I didn’t get around to this time. Have a theme you’d like me to talk about — wine and food pairings, wines for special occasions or anything else? Drop me a line at
HarryC13@aol.com and let me know and I’ll try to work your idea into the next column.
Until then, in vino veritas!
Answer to trivia question: During prohibition in the United States, an interesting product called the grape brick was sold to many Americans yearning for a taste of the “fruit of the vine.” Attached to the brick — made of dried and pressed winegrape concentrate — was a packet of yeast, and a warning that said, "Do not add yeast or fermentation will result."
This reminds me of one of many great quotes from W.C. Fields, who said, “Always carry a flask of whiskey in case of snake bite, and furthermore, always carry a snake." If you’d like to talk more about wine, W.C. Fields or whatever’s on your mind, you can contact me at HarryC13@aol.com.
By the way, prohibition — a bleak and abominable period that must have seemed like the Dark Ages, only longer because people couldn’t drink — seemed almost epidemic in the early twentieth century. Prohibition of alcoholic beverages lasted from: 1920 to 1933 in the United States, 1914 to 1925 in Russia and the Soviet Union and 1919 to 1932 in Finland, just for a few examples.
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Thanks as always to The Wine Merchant for providing excellent wines, wine education and support. Prices are based on the author’s experience and may vary.
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