Trivia question: As the November wind whistles through the trees in my back lot and the evening shadows shimmer menacingly on my hardwood dining room floor, I ask you: What are ghost wineries? Are they populated by spectres who harvest ghoulish grapes and make poltergeist Pinots, phantom Cabs and other such spirits?
This edition's trivia question may seem like a hangover from Halloween, But as The Wine Institute Web site says, "The darkening days of late autumn provide a fitting backdrop for haunted winery stories — even after Halloween.
And sure enough, winter, with its depressingly short days, is approaching. And with its approach, I sense it's time to revive my lifelong love of scary stories in books, film and theatre. For the past decade or so, I have been collecting and reading ghost stories, especially Victorian-era ghost stories. (Did you know, by the way, that many of the best ghost stories have been written by female writers — even in Victorian times when there were fewer women writers overall? This may come as no surprise to those who remember that Frankenstein was written by Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley.)
Anyway, sometime in the days between having a glass of Vampire Merlot, 2004 and a glass of Transylvania Pinot Noir , I read Karen MacNeil's October 31 entry in her wine calendar. It was there that I found out that "ghost winery” is the nickname for a dormant, deserted winery in California. That these wineries exist — at one time, there were nearly 100 of them in Napa Valley alone — shows that the California wine industry wasn't always the powerhouse it is today.
According to The Wine Institute Web site, "… there are wineries that are not necessarily haunted but referred to as 'ghost wineries.' The term is used to describe old, pre-Prohibition cellars, many of which existed between 1860 and 1900. When Prohibition began in 1919, there were 713 wineries in business. After repeal of Prohibition 14 years later, there were only 40 wineries left. Some were abandoned and completely disappeared; others remain as stone wall remnants of the past." According to Karen MacNeil, some of these have also begun producing wine again, while others have been converted into private homes.
So that answers the first half of my trivia question. For an answer to the second part — whether there are really ghostly presences haunting wineries — you'll have to wait until the end of the column.
Good evening! How about some blood-red wines?
I picked up the bottle of Vampire Merlot, 2004, made in Transylvania, Romania, at my highly esteemed local store, The Wine Merchant. The wine was blood red, of course, and had an interesting aroma of fruit, berries and licorice. There was good fruit overall — lots of strawberry and some toast and vanilla. Overall, not a bad wine for the price. Sadly, 2004 was apparently the last year that the wine was made in Transylvania, so that takes some of the romance away. It's now made in the Paso Robles area of California. This version is made with some Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon blended in with the Merlot, and not being the biggest Merlot fan in the world, I'll probably like it that way. I'll try it and let you know in a future column. It's $10.99, by the way, and I know that's almost a buck over my limit for this column, but I'm a marketing writer and old habits die hard.
Speaking of dying, Transylvania Pinot Noir, various vintages, is a wine for budget buyers to die for. Priced at only $7.99, it is on a par with Cono Sur and Trinity Oaks as an outstanding Pinot Noir. It is extremely smooth, with lots of that subtle cherry taste that I love. It's not often that a wine this cheap earns the adjective "elegant," but this one does. Strawberries and lush fruit on the aroma, plenty of fruit dominated subtly by that cherry savor and light but firm tannins for a smooth finish. And it is really from Transylvania, another added bonus if you have a sense of romance as well as a taste for good, affordable wine.
Featured wines
A Chilean winery named Surazo produces some great bargain wines. The Rapel Valley where it's located is cool but receives abundant sunshine, and it's named for the Surazo, loosely translated as "the big southern breeze." Maybe I should drink it while listening to the Red Hot Chili Peppers' "Zephyr Song."
Whatever you're listening to, you'll love the 2005 Surazo Sauvignon Blanc, filled with pear, pinepple and other tropical fruits and a nice acidic citrus tang. The aroma shows nice floral notes and overall it's a great Sauvignon. And did I mention that it's only $7.99? It's crisp, refreshing and has a beautiful finish that you'll remember.
Equally tasty is the 2003 Surazo Malbec, another steal at $7.99. Surazo claims to hand-pick their grapes in the predawn hours of the morning. Maybe that makes a difference, because they do make some tasty wines that would be a steal at twice the price. Personally, I wouldn't trust anything I do early in the morning, as I'm usually technically asleep until at least 9:30 a.m. But these folks have made a nice, jammy wine with lots of plum and berry, medium body and a hint of chocolate and great firm tannins.
I love the wines that Thorne Clark and their Milton Park second label turn out. Shotfire Ridge Barossa Shiraz is one of my all-time favorite wines at any price. But you can have the 2006 Milton Park Chardonnay for $9.99, and what a taste treat! The aroma is all blossoms and floral incense, and the aroma of apricot carries right on through to the tasting. It reminds me a little of the Louis Latour Chardonnay, with plenty of pineapple and tropical fruits. And the oak is well balanced and it's got a great long finish. Definitely a great buy.
Trivia question: As the November wind whistles through the trees in my back lot and the evening shadows shimmer menacingly on my hardwood dining room floor, I ask you: What are ghost wineries? Are they populated by spectres who harvest ghoulish grapes and make poltergeist Pinots, phantom Cabs and other such spirits?
Pick for Charlie
Well, Charlie Hart, last time I saw you in The Wine Merchant, you mentioned that you had been busy and hadn't had time to try my last pick. Shame on you! We always have to make time for a little good, affordable wine. You can catch up with last month's pick later, but skip ahead to this one … it's that good.
It's Amaroo Shiraz, 2005, New South Wales, Australia. At a time when the market is flooded with big, easy drinking and mouthfilling Shiraz, I'm going to recommend this one. For one thing, it's only $8.99 a bottle. For another, it may be worth the buck-and-a-half more than my beloved Bulletin Place Shiraz. They're both great wines, but I think the Amaroo is a tad more elegant. Full fruit flavors and lots of oak — but subdued oak, not in-your-face woodiness. Mellow tannins, a hint of licorice and nutmeg and classic Aussie Shiraz body. And all of this in a screwtop. Love it. Have fun with this one, Charlie!
Digging deeper
Charlie and I are both huge fans of this next wine. Someday in the not-too-distant future, people will be paying twice the price or more for Chilean and Argentine wines that are now selling for bargain-basement rates. The perfect example is the beautiful 1999 Familia Barberis Malbec from the Mendoza region of Argentina. Grown in vineyards on the slopes of the Andes and irrigated by thaw waters, these grapes produce a wine that is sublime. And it is only $15.99 a bottle — mind you, this is a wine with some age on it, and it's drinking beautifully. It reminds me, in elegance if not in body of taste, of a well-aged Rioja.
It's got such a strong backbone that it will probably continue to drink well for a few more years. It's 100 percent Malbec, with a red robe and the orange around the rim that indicates its age. Just full of dark chocolate, blackberry and spice — pronounced nutmeg and an incredible, silky-smooth finish. Trina and I treated ourselves to this with a good London broil smothered in mushrooms and onions, and it was a rare treat.
Surf in for more Tastings next time …
Hope you've enjoyed this month's edition of Ten Dollar Tastings. Lots more coming up next month, including interesting news about Cline Cellars and Redwood Creek winery. And because the holiday season will be in full swing, you can bet there will be something a little festive going on here. See you in December.
Until then, in vino veritas … and que syrah, syrah!
Answer to trivia question: You already know what "ghost wineries" are, but according to The Wine Institute Web site, there are some California wineries that are indeed thought to be haunted! You can read all about them at the site. It also appears that in a Delaware home called Woodburn, there is a ghost who has a taste for the grape and has been seen sipping wine in the dining room. This is certainly the way to spend the afterlife.
If you’d like to talk more about wine, spirits, spirited wines, or alcoholic apparitions, contact me at HarryC13@aol.com.
Thanks as always to The Wine Merchant for providing excellent wines, wine education and support. Prices are based on the author’s experience and may vary.
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